Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011--Dior!!!


Dior Haute Couture...sans Galliano:


Fashion Darlings: Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week began this past Monday and ended yesterday (I know, only three days!). So, naturally, I am here as your "Fashion Servant" to give you the highlights and my "Nick V. Two Cents" on what the top designers offered in terms of these rarefied hand-made $100,000+ clothes on the catwalks. These clothes are then either shown or lent to stylists for their famous Hollywood clients to wear to BIG Red Carpet events, given to fashion editors to feature in their magazines, or hopefully, ordered by that very small list of multi-millionaire clientele (estimated at just 400 in the entire World!) from Dallas to Dubai, Mumbai, Beijing and Shanghai.

First up: Christian Dior Haute Couture:
Cirque de Couture: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

This show, of course, was one of the most--if not THE MOST-anticipated show of the season. Obviously since, it was the first Dior Haute Couture showing following John Galliano's unceremonious departure and firing. Lots was expected of Bill Gaytten, who has taken over (for now) as the head of the Dior Design Team. He's been with John Galliano & Co. for over 20 years so if any one can sense what Galliano would have done and what direction he would have gone in, it would be him. Did he live up to this? It seems the reaction was mixed:

Here's a quote from Tim Blanks of style.com, of what he thought of the show and the clothes:

On the evidence of today's first Dior couture show without John Galliano, what happens is a misjudged effort to impress an alien thumbprint on an aesthetic that, for better or worse, is one of the fashion industry's most clearly defined.
.....
Then came Karlie Kloss, dressed as a Pierrot, sad clown all alone in the spotlight as the soundtrack failed and glitter showered down. But the stardust missed her by this much. And that felt like some kind of crazy cosmic metaphor.
Ouch, I think...

Bronzed Twisted Princesses: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

The show had three distinct sections. It began with lots of color, prints, stripes, all very "Cirque de Dior". Fall/Winter for the Dior Couture ladies will not be a dark and somber one. It also looked very 80's Neon/Maripol/Stephen Sprouse/Memphis Movement. The Dior Bar Jacket showed up several times, but somehow it's still didn't have the same effect when Galliano did his magic with it. The pleating, twisting and intricate draping that the Dior Couture House of petite mains are known for, was all there. But there seemed to be something missing...

Valley of the Dior Dolls: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

The second section was a "Caftan" late 1970's "Disco" section and to be honest, after looking at the photos and the video, this was my favorite part of the show and I almost wish Creative Director Bill Gaytten and his Dior Design Team would have done a complete collection of Caftans, almost as a cleansing of the Galliano aesthetic. I just wished the entire show was ONE STRONG Statement a la "Flower Power Dior" (Fall 2010 Collection), "Dior Goes Equestrian" (Spring 2010 Collection), or "Tutankhamen Dior", but instead this one had several and they were rather incohesive. It should have been all "Caftan Valley-of-the-Dolls Couture!".

Petticoat Clowns: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Of course, in the end, there were Ball Gowns. Huge, entrance-making ones. This was supposed to be the "Grand Finale" but again, these out-of-control gowns fell flat--especially on a runway that was not wide enough for them (what happened there?). The gown above is the one Tim Blanks was referring to--the (somewhat sad) Pierrot Clown Gown. It is definitely difficult to carry on after Galliano and only time will tell, if he will succeed. Don't miss the designer (and his assistant Susanna Venegas) uncomfortable bow at the end of the video...

Click Below for Full Video of the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Show:



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